3D Printing: From Model to Finished Part

The complete workflow for beginners – clearly explained.

The Workflow in 4 Steps

1. Create or download 3D model – in a CAD program like Fusion 360, Blender, FreeCAD, or Tinkercad. Alternatively: ready-made models e.g. from Printables, Thingiverse, or MakerWorld.
2. Export as STL – the CAD program converts the model into a triangle mesh. What an STL file is exactly.
3. Slicing – a slicer (e.g. Cura, PrusaSlicer, OrcaSlicer) breaks down the model into layers and generates G-code with print paths.
4. Printing – transfer G-code to the printer (SD card, USB, WLAN) and start printing.

The Most Important Printing Processes

FDM / FFF – Fused Deposition Modeling

By far the most common process in the hobby and home sector. A plastic filament (e.g., PLA, PETG, ABS) is melted and applied layer by layer. Printers: Bambu Lab, Prusa, Creality, Anycubic, and many more.

SLA / MSLA – Resin Printing

Liquid photopolymer resin is cured punctually or layer by layer by UV light. Very fine details, smooth surfaces – ideal for miniatures, jewelry, dentistry.

SLS – Selective Laser Sintering

A laser sinters plastic powder layer by layer. No support structures needed, highly resilient components – mostly in the professional sector.

Important Settings in the Slicer

• Layer Height – typically 0.12–0.28 mm for FDM. Smaller = finer, but slower.
• Infill – internal fill density (15–30% for most parts).
• Wall Thickness – 2–4 outer walls, significantly affects strength.
• Support Structures – needed for overhangs > approx. 45°.
• Print Speed & Temperature – material-dependent.

Typical Materials (FDM)

Before Printing: Check STL

Before you click "Slice", it's worth taking a look at the model. Use our STL Viewer to check dimensions, activate wireframe, and detect obvious problems early. Repair tips can be found under Repair STL.